- NOTE: This project and these instructions have been written for someone who has experience making soap and knows the potential dangers due to working with sodium hydroxide. It will not outline safety methods of working with dangerous chemicals, it is simply a soap recipe for advanced soapmakers.
- Put on your protective gear. This is very important since you will be working with an extremely caustic base that can and will burn you if you touch it. Noxious fumes are also released from the exothermic reaction that occurs when you mix the sodium hydroxide with water.
- Wear a face mask or leave the vicinity quickly after stirring the sodium hydroxide into the water. If you get any lye on your skin just wash it off quickly with copious amounts of cool water.
- Prepare the lye solution by weighing the water and lye in two separate containers. Pour the lye into the water, carefully mix in a well-ventilated area and set aside to cool while you prepare your oils.
- Melt the solid oils (coconut 76 and shea butter) either by microwave or stovetop. Melt just until melted and no more.
- Add the liquid oils to melted oils to bring the temperature down. Add the fragrance oil and stir.
- Once the lye has cooled down to under 90° F, pour the lye solution into oils and blend until very light trace.
- Divide the soap into three containers.
- Scoop the matte teal pigment into one container and blend using the stickblender quickly. Don’t blend for a long time or it will get too thick. Repeat for the matte woodland green pigment and for the white mica.
- You should now have three containers, one dark green, one light green and one white.
Your soap has probably thickened up a bit. That’s okay and usually works well with this design.
- Starting with the white, pour a strip of soap down the center of the mold. Continuing with one of the green soaps, pour a strip of soap down the middle of the mold on top of the white soap. Repeat for the other green. Repeat until the mold is full. Thicker soap produces bigger color parts like in the picture above. Thinner pours create smaller color parts.
- Allow your soap to harden overnight and unmold the next day. If the soap is too soft, allow soap to harden for 48 hours.
- Cut and cure for a minimum of four weeks.