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RECIPE: Honey and Beeswax Cold Process Soap

Beeswax is a great additive for cold process soap. It can reduce ash, harden soap and make it easier to unmold your soap when using individual cavity molds. Honey is another great additive for cold process soap. It increases lather and has great label appeal!

Project Level: Advanced – Danger Chemicals
Estimated Time: 1 Hour
Yield: (8) 1" Slices


  • 8.0 Ounce(s) Distilled Water
  • 4.0 Ounce(s) Sodium Hydroxide Flakes
  • 10.0 Ounce(s) Coconut Oil - 76º Melt
  • 2.0 Ounce(s) Shea Butter - Natural
  • 12.0 Ounce(s) Olive Oil - Refined A
  • 2.0 Ounce(s) Sweet Almond Oil - Refined
  • 2.0 Ounce(s) Sunflower Oil - Refined
  • 1.5 Ounce(s) Honey Almond - EO & FO Blend 741
  • 1 Tablespoon(s) Beeswax - Yellow Pastilles
  • 1 Tablespoon(s) Local Honey


  •  Scale - Digital Display (Professional)
  •  Thermometer - Infrared, Professional (Gun Style)
  •  Regular Loaf Silicone Mold 1501
  •  Mixing Bowls
  •  Mixing Spoons
  •  Spatulas
  •  Stick Blender
  •  Measuring Spoons
  •  Safety Equipment (gloves, goggles, mask)
  •  Microwave or Stove Top
  •  Straight Soap Cutter

Recipe Directions

  1. NOTE: This project and these instructions have been written for someone who has experience making soap and knows the potential dangers due to working with sodium hydroxide. It will not outline safety methods of working with dangerous chemicals, it is simply a soap recipe for advanced soapmakers.
  2. Put on your protective gear. This is very important since you will be working with an extremely caustic base that can and will burn you if you touch it. Noxious fumes are also released from the exothermic reaction that occurs when you mix the sodium hydroxide with water. 
  3. Wear a face mask or leave the vicinity quickly after stirring the sodium hydroxide into the water. If you get any lye on your skin just wash it off quickly with copious amounts of cool water.
  4. Prepare the lye solution by weighing the water and lye in two separate containers. Pour the lye into the water, carefully mix in a well-ventilated area and set aside to cool while you prepare your oils.
  5. Melt the coconut oil, shea butter and beeswax either by microwave or stovetop. Melt just until melted and no more.    
  6. Add the liquid oils and honey to the melted oils to bring the temperature down. Add the fragrance oil and stir.
  7. Once the lye and oils have cooled down to under 110° F, pour the lye solution into oils and blend until trace. You have to soap a bit hotter when using beeswax as you don’t want it to re-solidify before mixing. Both beeswax and honey accelerate trace a bit. So be prepared for it to move quickly.
  8. Pour the soap into your mold.
  9. Allow your soap to harden overnight and unmold the next day. If the soap is too soft, allow soap to harden for 48 hours.
  10. Cut and cure for a minimum of four weeks.

INCI Ingredient Label: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil, Fragrance, Beeswax, Honey.

Wholesale Supplies Plus is not responsible for the products you create from our supplies. You alone are responsible for product and recipe testing to ensure compatibility and safety.
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1 Question(s) Shown Below

WSP Questions And Answers

"Since this recipe has both honey and beeswax, do I have to worry about the soap getting too hot and "boiling out" of the mold during the gel phase? I like to cover my cp soaps with plastic wrap while in the mold to prevent ash, but should I leave it uncovered so it stays cooler? Thank you"

Click Here To View 1 answer(s)
Posted By: roberta   |   February 22, 2016

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