This cold process soap recipe features a cooling and refreshing fragrance, and a fun swirl that will draw your customers in from the heat.
Wholesale Supplies Plus is not responsible for the products you create from our supplies.
You alone are responsible for product and recipe testing to ensure compatibility and safety.
Project Level: Advanced – Danger Chemicals
Estimated Time: 1 Hour
Yield: (12) 1.25" Bars
• 22 oz. Olive Oil - Refined A
• 18 oz. Coconut Oil - 76º Melt
• 18 oz. Water
• 8.90 oz. Sodium Hydroxide Flakes
• 8 oz. Shea Butter - Natural
• 8 oz. Avocado Oil
• 8 oz. Rice Bran Oil
• 4 oz. Sweet Juicy Pear Fragrance Oil 231
• 1/4 Teaspoon(s) Matte Lavender Ultramarine Powder
• 1/4 Teaspoon(s) Matte Teal Green Pigment Powder
• Tray 12 Rectangles Silicone Mold 1701
• Scale - Digital Display (Professional)
• Stick Blender
• Appropriate containers for lye, water and mixing s
• Measuring Spoons
• Straight Soap Cutter
• Thermometer - Infrared, Dual Laser
• Microwave or Stovetop
INCI Ingredient Label: Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Water, Sodium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Fragrance, Ultramarines and Chromium Hydroxide Green
- NOTE: If you are making these products for sale, good manufacturing practices recommend you wear a hairnet, gloves and a mask. We also recommend a clean apron.
- This project and these instructions have been written for someone who has experience making soap and knows the potential dangers due to working with sodium hydroxide. It will not outline safety methods of working with dangerous chemicals, it is simply a soap recipe for advanced soapmakers.
- Put on your protective gear. This is very important since you will be working with an extremely caustic base that can and will burn you if you touch it. Noxious fumes are also released from the exothermic reaction that occurs when you mix the sodium hydroxide with water.
- Wear a face mask or leave the vicinity quickly after stirring the sodium hydroxide into the water. If you get any lye on your skin just wash it off quickly with copious amounts of cool water.
- Prepare the lye solution by weighing the water and lye into separate containers. Pour the lye into the water, carefully mix in a well-ventilated area and set aside to cool while you prepare your oils.
- Melt the solid oils (coconut oil and shea butter) either by microwave or stovetop. Melt just until melted and no more.
- Add the liquid oils (olive oil, rice bran oil and avocado oil) to melted oils to bring the temperature down. Add the essential oils to the oil mixture and stir.
- Once the oils and lye have cooled down to under 90°F, pour the lye solution into oils and blend until just emulsified. If you blend to a thick trace, you might not have enough time to swirl the soap.
- Next, we need two cups. Pour about 12 ounces of soap into each cup. Color one with lavender pigment and the other with teal green pigment. Stickblend briefly to get the color dispersed. Don’t stickblend long or your soap will setup too fast.
- Pour the uncolored soap into the mold. Holding each color up high, rotate drizzling the colored soap into the mold. The higher you hold the pouring container, the deeper it will go into the uncolored soap. End with the pouring container close to the surface of the soap to make color sit on the surface.
- Use a spatula to swirl the soap.
- Allow your soap to harden overnight and unmold the next day. If the soap is too soft, allow soap to harden for 48 hours.
- Cut and cure for a minimum of four weeks.