Learn to Make: Lip-Gloss

Butters - Butters add protective barriers to the skin and help to add emolliency to lip-gloss. Butters can include shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter or any other natural cosmetic based butter or butter blend.

• Cocoa Butter - Cocoa butter is thought to reduce skin dryness and improve elasticity.
• Shea Butter - Shea butter is high in vitamin and mineral content, which is thought to benefit dry skin.
• Mango Butter - Mango butter is thought to exhibit excellent moisturizing properties.
• Tucuma Butter - Tucuma butter is considered to have high levels of Lauric, Myristic and Oleoic fatty acids, which are all thought to moisturize the skin.

Oils - You will want to choose oils that have a long shelf life. Different oils offer different results in lip-gloss based on their properties. Some examples:

Lighter base oils for a more absorbing lip-gloss -

• Fractionated Coconut Oil
• Coconut Oil - 76º Melt
• Sunflower Oil
• Grape Seed Oil
• Safflower Oil
• Meadowfoam Seed Oil

Medium oils -

• Rice Bran Oil
• Sweet Almond Oil
• Jojoba Oil
• Apricot Kernel Oil

Heavier oils for a heavy lip-gloss -

• Olive Oil
• Avocado Oil

Glossy oils for a smooth glossy finish -

• Castor Oil - Castor oil is a wonderful ingredient in lip-gloss as it gives lip-gloss a smooth and glossy finish. Your lips will shine with castor oil in your base.

Additives that are oil-soluble and lip-safe can be added to lip-gloss. Never add anything water-based, as it will separate out from the lip-gloss. Some additives include:

Flavor Oils - Flavor oils are used in flavoring lip-gloss, and lipstick. Some are sweetened and some are not. The typical usage rate is about 1-2% of the total lip-gloss recipe, but double check IFRA guidelines to make sure you comply. Sweetened flavor oils should be tested at 1% and then adjusted up from there, as they can taste bitter if too much is used.

Fragrance Oils - Lip-safe fragrance oil can be used in lip-gloss. IFRA Maximum Skin Exposure Levels for your fragrance oil for use on lips should be 1% or more. The typical usage rate is about 1% of the total lip-gloss recipe.

Essential Oils - Lip-safe essential oil can be used in lip-gloss as well. The usage rate is 1%. Make sure that the essential oil that you use is lip safe, non-phototoxic and IFRA approved up to 1% or more in lip products.

Sweetener for Lip Gloss - If you are using a fragrance oil or essential oil and want to add a sweetener, you can use Saccharin, a liquid sweetener. This liquid sweetener is cosmetic grade and safe for lip-based products. If you use too much of this product, it will make your lip-gloss bitter. The typical usage rate is about 1% of the total lip balm recipe.

Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive - Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive helps to create a smooth and creamy lip gloss when shea butter is used. Shea butter can sometimes be grainy. This helps prevent that. The usage rate is 5%.

Vitamin E - Vitamin E T-50 is an excellent antioxidant for products containing oils. The usage rate for vitamin E is 1%.

Colorants - You can add color to your lip-gloss by using an oil-based colorant such as Oil Locking Mica

*Make sure that any additives you use in your lip-gloss are lip safe. Creating a recipe for lip-gloss is super simple! You can change the consistency of your lip-gloss by playing with the ratios of hard butters to liquid oils. For a completely liquid lip-gloss, use liquid oils and package in roller bottles.

You can formulate your own lip-gloss recipe by using the percentages below as a guide.

Lip-Gloss for Pots and Jars:
Begin by creating the base. We recommend the below percentages for creating a base for pots and jars.
25% Butter(s)
25% Smooth and Creamy Lotion Bar Additive
25% Liquid Oil(s)
25% Coconut Oil - 76º Melt (or softer butter)

Once you have the base made, incorporate additives at the percentages listed.
1-2% Flavor Oil
1% Vitamin E
1/4 tsp. Mica per 120 g base

Lip-Gloss for Roller Bottles:
Begin by creating the base. We recommend the below percentages for creating a base for roller bottles.
100% Liquid Oil(s)

Once you have the base made, incorporate additives at the percentages listed.
1-2% Flavor Oil
1% Vitamin E
1/4 tsp. Mica per 120 g base


Below are some sample lip-gloss formulas.

Lip-Gloss for Containers
Refined Shea Butter - 30 g
Coconut Oil - 76º Melt - 30 g
Castor Oil - 30 g
Smooth and Creamy Lotion Bar Additive - 30 g
Oil Locking Mica - 1/4 tsp.
Flavor Oil - 2 mL
Vitamin E - 1 mL

Lip-Gloss for Roller Bottles
Castor Oil - 60 g
Sweet Almond Oil - 30 g
Avocado Oil - 30 g
Oil Locking Mica - 1/4 tsp.
Flavor Oil - 2 mL
Vitamin E - 1 mL
Equipment Required

• A heat-safe container
• Scale to weigh ingredients
• Spatula or spoon
• Plastic Droppers
• Hair net and gloves

Packaging Lip-Gloss

• Mini Pots and Jars - There are also a variety of mini pots and jars that you can choose from.
• Malibu Tottles - These containers are perfect for thicker lip-gloss. The user can gently squeeze out product onto their finger and rub onto lips.
• Roller Bottles - Roller bottles work great for packaging more liquid lip-gloss.

Basic Process: No Melt
Use this process for lip-gloss for roller bottles.

Step 1 - Place all of the ingredients into a mixing bowl.

Step 2 - Mix until all ingredients are fully incorporated.

Step 3 - Pour into roller bottle containers. Press in roller ball inserts and cap.

Step 4 - Label your product and include the following information:

• Product name
• Net weight size
• Directions for use<