Learn to Make: Lip Balm From Scratch

Wax - Wax is a very important ingredient in lip balm. Wax hardens lip balm and keeps it solid in warm temperatures. Beeswax is the standard in waxes to use for lip balm but you could certainly experiment with others, especially if you’re looking for something vegan friendly. Here are some wax choices.

• Beeswax - Beeswax provides a protective barrier on the skin, locking in moisture. Beeswax comes in both yellow and white pastilles. Beeswax has a melt point of about 144°-147°F.
• Candelilla Wax - Candelilla Wax is a natural non-animal based wax. Plants producing candelilla wax grow in Mexico, in the North Central Plains, and the Chihuahua Desert. It is a very hard wax with a melt point of about 155°-162°F.
• Carnauba Wax - Carnauba Wax is a natural non-animal based wax. It is known as the "queen of waxes” and comes in the form of hard yellow flakes. Carnauba Wax has a melt point of about 180°–187°F.

Butters - Butters add protective barriers to the skin and help to add emolliency to lip balm. Butters can include shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter or any other natural cosmetic based butter or butter blend.

• Cocoa Butter - Pure cocoa butter is thought to reduce skin dryness and improve elasticity.
• Shea Butter - Pure Shea butter is high in vitamin and mineral content, which is thought to benefit dry skin.
• Mango Butter - Pure mango butter is thought to exhibit excellent moisturizing properties while countering the drying effects of bar soaps and cleansers.
• Tucuma Butter - Tucuma butter is considered to have high levels of Lauric, Myristic and Oleoic fatty acids, which are all thought to moisturize.

Base Oils - You will want to choose oils that have a long shelf life. Different oils offer different results in lip balm based on their properties. Some examples:

• Lighter base oils for a more absorbing lip balm -
  • Fractionated Coconut Oil
  • Sunflower Oil
  • Grape Seed Oil
  • Safflower Oil
  • Meadowfoam Seed Oil
• Medium oils -
  • Rice Bran Oil
  • Sweet Almond Oil
  • Jojoba Oil
  • Apricot Kernel Oil
• Heavier oils for a heavy lip balm -
  • Olive Oil
  • Avocado Oil
• Glossy oils for a smooth glossy finish -
  • Castor Oil - Castor oil is a wonderful ingredient in lip balm as it gives lip balm a smooth and glossy finish. Your lips will shine with castor oil in your base.

Most additives that are oil-soluble can be incorporated into a lip balm. Never add anything water-based, as it will separate out from the lip balm. Some additives include:

Flavor Oils - Flavor oils are used in flavoring lip balms, lip-gloss, and lipstick. Some are sweetened and some are not. The typical usage rate is about 1-2% of the total lip balm recipe but double check IFRA guidelines to make sure you comply. Sweetened flavor oils should be tested at 1% and then adjusted up from there, as they can taste bitter if too much is used.

Fragrance Oils - Fragrance oil can be used in lip balm as long as it is lip safe. IFRA Maximum Skin Exposure Levels for your fragrance oil for use on lips should be 1% or more. The typical usage rate is about 1% of the total lip balm recipe.

Essential Oils - Essential oil can be used in lip balm as well. The usage rate is 1%. Make sure that the essential oil that you use is lip safe, non-phototoxic and IFRA approved up to 1% or more in lip products.

Sweetener for Lip Balm - If you are using a fragrance oil and want to add a sweetener, you can use Saccharin, a liquid sweetener. This liquid sweetener is cosmetic grade and safe for lip-based products. If you use too much of this product, it will make your lip base bitter. It can go into lip-gloss and chapstick like bases, but it cannot be used in products that are going to be eaten or ingested. The typical usage rate is about 1% of the total lip balm recipe.

Smooth & Creamy Lotion Bar Additive - Lotion Bar Additive helps to create a smooth and creamy lip balm. It is especially useful when Shea butter is used, as Shea butter can sometimes be grainy. This helps prevent the graininess. The usage rate is 5%.

Vitamin E - Vitamin E T-50 is an excellent antioxidant for products containing oils. The usage rate for Vitamin E is 1%.

Colorants - You can add color to your lip balm by using an oil-based colorant such as Oil Locking Mica. Make sure the color you choose is approved for lip care.

• Neon Pink Pleasures Powder
• Neon Pretty In Pink Powder
• Neon Coral and Cocktails Powder
• Coral Oil Locking Mica Shimmer
• Crimson Sparkle Mica Powder
• Cafe Latte Sparkle Mica Powder

*Make sure that any additives you use in your lip balm are lip safe. Lip balm can be poured into tubes or pots for use and packaging.

Lip Balm Tubes - Lip balm tubes come in many shapes, colors and sizes. You can find slim tubes, oval tubes and the common round tubes. Most styles come in black, white or natural.

To make filing lip tubes easier, you can use a Lip Tube Filling Tray.

Metal Tins - Lip